You Guatagetsome Guatemala

 

Guatemala – I don't even know where to begin. Quite simply, you've Guatagetsome. The countries that I least expect to mesmerize me are the ones that end up surprising and captivating me (such as many countries in Eastern Europe). This country got a bad rep for its political unrest and other issues during the 20th century, which kept travelers and tourists from visiting this amazing country. But it shouldn't. I never once felt unsafe.

Guatemala is the perfect mix of European flare, Asian chaos, and the hospitality of the Americas. To say I'm obsessed with this place and its people is a gross understatement. It's the perfect country to visit if you're looking for history, adventure, landscape, culture, and cuisine. Every day during my travels through this breathtaking country, Guatemala found a way to steal my heart. I swear little pieces of me have been left all throughout this country. Plus, Guatemala is a country any traveler can visit on any budget (it's incredibly cheap).

 

I first arrived in Guatemala City late because as per usual, Aero México couldn't get its schedule correct and instead headed directly to Guatemala's colonial pride and joy, Antigua. My accommodations in Antigua were already taken care of by my travel companion, Gina. I don't often travel with other folks, and when I do, I prefer to make all the arrangements myself – I'm a bit of a control freak and I like to accomplish as much as possible when I'm visiting a place. But Gina has a timeshare and didn’t hesitate to take full advantage of its offerings. I'm happy she volunteered to use it, as it was like staying in a mansion. Hotel Soleil's accommodations are spacious, new, and exquisitely maintained. We had a full two bedroom, two-bath spread that's bigger than any apartment I've resided in in the past ten years. No joke. Traveling to Guatemala is already off to a ridiculously good start. Am I really here?

Antigua is unreal. Nestled in between three volcanoes, Antigua is a bustling, colorful, and jaw-opening gorgeous little city. This city served as Guatemala’s capital until an earthquake leveled it in the 1700s. Although Antigua was mostly rebuilt after this disastrous earthquake, some ancient ruins still remain and are excellent places to explore during the day. It's not hard to find things to do in Antigua – just wander around and you'll find something new and intriguing to check out.

 

Guatemalans are hard workers and smart business people, so you'll definitely find a franchised Wendy's or McDonald's around Antigua, but you'll have to look hard because there are no ugly signs or a played out drive thru. In Antigua, these chain places are situated in historic buildings and blend in perfectly. I dined at local places and have not been able to stop thinking about the insanely delicious Q30 meal I had at Rincon Tipico. When a restaurant only features three daily specials and is packed with locals, go in – you won't be disappointed.

A week in Antigua was perfect for seeing the sights and getting a feel of the city, but I sure wished I could have stayed longer and enjoyed more amazing conversations with fellow travelers at Cafe No Sé (don't skip having a beer – or five – here).

My continued journey took me from Antigua to the Lake Atítlan area, specifically Panajechal and Santiago. Panajechal is slightly played out and touristy, but it's the major jump spot to reach other areas of the lake. The market is great, but I wouldn't recommend staying here for too long if you want to get a genuine feeling of the Solola area. Get on a boat quickly and head over to Santiago on the opposite side of the lake. Situated in between three volcanoes (one with a double cone!), Lake Atitlan is rich with beauty and ancient traditions. In Santiago (or Tzikin Ja in the local Mayan language), I paid my respects to Maximon, an effigy of a Mayan God who's a big fan of smoking and drinking. It's an awkward journey through a labyrinth of tiny, hidden alleys to get there, but once you reach Maximon's abode, you'll be welcomed with smiles by the Mayan shamans and richly rewarded with Mayan culture. I bought Maximon a shot, received a blessing, and observed one of the most interesting (and cool) religious ceremonies ever. As native as I am to speaking Spanish, I had no clue what was happening during the ceremony because the shamans were speaking in Santiago's Mayan tongue. Maximon moves yearly around town, so finding him isn't the same for everyone. If you're curious as to his whereabouts, ask one of the local children and they'll take you to Maximon for a small tip.

 

After Atitlan, I found myself in Cobán, a small town approximately 80 kilometers from one of Guatemala's natural wonders, Semuc Champey. I chose to stay in Cobán versus Lanquín because of my desperate desire to connect to Wi-Fi. Cobán is much more connected to the outside world; electricity is available 24/7, cell towers connect, and Wi-Fi is enabled. My choice to stay in Cobán was immediately confirmed as an excellent decision when I arrived at my accommodation. Cobán Casa Q’eqchi’ was beyond fantastic, and the service I received from this small, family owned place is unparalleled. I immediately felt like I was a part of this family. Staying here touched me in a way I can't describe in words. (No, this isn't a sponsored post)

 

Upon discovering that my tour to Semuc Champey began at 6:00 a.m., I wasn't as excited as I should have been. But to say that this tour is life changing is an understatement. I was challenged in ways I never expected. The hike to Semuc Champey's viewpoint is strenuous but rewarding. There were a couple times that I thought I was going to pass out or puke, but dammit – I made it. Dripping in sweat with a red face, I took some selfies at the viewpoint and basked in the natural ambience of this incredible place. After the hike, the group hiked down and we went to spend time in the beautiful limestone pools. After that hike, this relief and relaxation was much needed.  Following our swim, we proceeded to the caves. At the entrance of the cave, we were given a candle. WTF? Is this a souvenir? Are we going to watch a cool Mayan ritual? Upon entering the caves, I quickly realize that this candle is our only source of light inside this cave. Almost immediately, we were immersed chest deep in cave water below stalactites with only a candle per person lighting the way. This expedition seemed insane and quickly went from cool to frightening. The entire time I was in the cave, my knees didn't stop shaking from fear. Inside this cave, I climbed a waterfall with only a rope, jumped off a cliff into a lagoon, climbed the sketchiest ladder I've ever seen, squeezed in a small rock, then shot down a small waterfall like a slide, and swam in pitch black darkness not knowing what was around me. It was the single most scary, exhilarating, and amazing experience I've had while traveling. In the “western” world, this crazy use of candles and beyond dangerous activities would never happen because of safety issues, but here I am alive and telling you this amazing story. After the awesome cave expedition, our group grabbed some inner tubes and some beers and calmly made our way down the nearby river. There couldn't have been a better way to end such a day. Seriously, Guatemala, you're freaking incredible.

 

It was hard for me to imagine that after all this awesomeness, there were still more adventures to come. The next morning, I left Cobán and began my journey to Tikal. Tikal, an ancient Mayan development nestled deep in the jungle, is Guatemala's #1 tourist destination (now a UNESCO site). My intentions were to make it to Tikal to view the famous sunset over the temples, but shitty roads and Guatemalan traffic were sure not going to let that happen. Not disappointed and always positive, I woke up early to the sound of howler monkeys and jaguars and got to the park before the flocks of tourists. Tourists begin to arrive at Tikal in large groups anytime after 11:00 am. By arriving early, you avoid crowds of people in your pictures. One of the benefits of staying directly in the park at the Jungle Lodge is immediate access to the park and the ability to see the sunrises and sunsets (there is also a campground). Plus, it's not often you get to say you spent the night actually at a UNESCO site. Since I'm not the best orienteer, I decided to grab a guide at the entrance. Hector immediately became my best friend and completely made my day. Unfortunately, Gina became ill, and Hector made it his personal mission to find local, natural remedies in an effort to help her feel better. He was simply amazing. Tikal, your employees rock. It's possible to climb a few temples of Tikal, and I highly recommend making the hike up Temple IV – the views of this ancient Mayan city and the surrounding forest from here are unreal. Tikal's history and beauty, sounds of the wild jungle animals, and Hector's knowledge – I could have stayed at this magical place for many more hours.

 

My time in this indescribably beautiful country concluded in Guatemala City, where my journey began. Yes, it’s big, “dangerous,” kinda dirty, and crowded, but Guatemala City has a completely different and modern vibe not found anywhere else in Guatemala. Museums, fascinating architecture, and cultural experiences abound in Guatemala’s capital for travelers who decide to stick around.

 

The morning of my departure, I was awakened by an earthquake shaking my bed and to the noises of the entire building creaking while it tried to remain stable as the earth moved below it. Well, I sure didn’t sleep through that one (like I did in Antigua)! I was sad to be leaving Guatemala. Adventure excursions fulfill me more than any other traveling experience – I always leave with more confidence than I had when arrived. I still can’t believe that I was spelunking in a freaking cave with a mere candle. WTF? Thanks for the memories that I’ll cherish and never forget, Guatemala. It’s not adiós, it’s hasta luego.